As of 02/21/2025, the coolant pump may arrive with different handles as shown on the right-hand side of the image. The older version is shown on the left. There is no functionality difference between the two styles of pump.

The 3/4 hp Single-Phase Universal Replacement Pump:

• You can adapt this universal replacement pump to fit all machines that use a 3/4 hp single-phase pump.
• The replacement pump fits and will operate the same as the old pump, although it may look different from the old pump.
• Sheetmetal from your old pump will bolt onto the new unit. 
• If the power cable on the new pump is different from the old pump, move the cable from the old pump to the new pump.

Inspect the impeller before replacing entire pump assembly. Replacing a damaged impeller can correct noise and output issues. Refer to Standard (Flood) Coolant - System - Troubleshooting Guide for impeller replacement instructions.

Machine Compatibility

You can install the 3/4 hp, single-phase Universal Replacement Pump on any machine that currently has a 3/4 hp, single-phase coolant pump.

Document Applies to these Parts

[A] 30-11848A QTY: 1 CLNT PUMP/MOTOR ASSEMBLY 3/4HP 1PH

[B] 26-7650A QTY: 1 PUMP IMPELLER

Tools Required

• Wire Cutters
• Crescent Wrench
• Phillips Screwdriver
• 3/16" Allen Wrench
• Drill Bit - "Q" (0.322")
• 1/8" NPT Tap and Handle
• Drill
• Thread Sealing Tape

If a standard auxiliary coolant filter (AF-STD) system [1] is not connected to the old pump, do Step 2.

If a standard auxiliary coolant filter (AF-STD) system [1] is connected to your old pump, drill and tap a 1/8" NPT hole at the location on the pump shown.

Disconnect and remove the old pump [1] from the coolant tank.

Remove the hose fittings [3] from the old pump. Note their orientation and order.

Remove the old pump from the stand [2], if applicable.

Install the PUMP/MOTOR [A] into the old stand, if applicable. Use the old hardware.

Apply sealant to the threads of the old fittings [3]. Install the fittings [3] on the PUMP/MOTOR [A] in the correct location [4].

Connect the AF-STD fittings to the new pump, if applicable.

Do this step if you must replace the PUMP/MOTOR [A] and the plug on new cable [1] is not compatible with the machine:

Note the wiring before removing the cable. Remove the cable [1] from the old pump motor. Remove the cover and cable from the new PUMP/MOTOR [A]. Install the cable [1] from the old motor to the new PUMP/MOTOR [A].

Correctly connect the old cable to the new PUMP/MOTOR [A]. Use the (2) CRIMP WIRE NUTS [B]. Use wire strippers and crimp pliers to correctly connect the cable.

Install the new pump assembly into the coolant tank. Connect the supply hoses and power connector.

If you have an AF-STD system, install the 1/4" hose and the 1/8" to 1/4" fitting from the AF-STD kit into the hole you drilled in STEP 1.

Push COOLANT. Make sure the coolant system operates correctly. Examine all connections for leaks.

Put a mark [1] on the pump cover and the body so that you can install the cover in the correct orientation.

Remove these components:

• The (3) screws [2] and the (3) lock washers [3] for the pump cover.
• The impeller cover [4]
• The Philip Head Screw (PHS) [5] and hard washer [6]

  
  Note: Turn the PHS [5] clockwise to loosen it. Discard the star washer if present where the hard washer [6] should be.

• The impeller [7]
• The shims from the impeller shaft [8]

Install the same number of shims that you removed onto the impeller shaft.

Install the impeller, the flat washer and the impeller screw.

Note: Turn the impeller screw counterclockwise to tighten it.

Adjust the number of shims on the impeller shaft until the gap between the impeller [1] and the pump base [2] is 0.007" [3].

Remove the impeller screw and flat washer.

Put red thread locking compound around the edge of the impeller shaft. [1]

Slide the impeller up and down on the shaft. Make sure that the locking compound is spread evenly on the shaft and the inside of the bore of the impeller.

Put red thread locking compound on the impeller screw [2].

Install the screw [2] and the flat washer [3].

Note: Turn the impeller screw counterclockwise to tighten it.

Align the marks on the cover and the pump body.

Install the impeller cover with the (3) screws and (3) lock washers.

This procedure tells you how to install a washdown hose. The kit for the washdown hose is in the tote kit. 

Mills larger than the VF-5 have a second washdown hose. To install a second washdown hose use this procedure: Supplemental Washdown Hose

These instructions apply to these machines:

• VM-1/2 - Made after 11/13/2013
• VF-1/2 - Made after 11/13/2013
• VF-3/4/5 - Made after 02/20/2014
• VF-6/7/8/9/10/11/12 - Made after 06/09/2014
• DT-1 - Made after 06/09/2014
• DM-1 - Made after 01/01/2015
• MM/SMM - Made after 07/01/2015

Tools Required:

• Crescent Wrench
• 5/32" Allen Wrench

Apply thread sealant to all threaded surfaces of the coolant fittings.

Find the cap [1] at the bottom left on the enclosure. Remove the cap [1] from the MALE ENCLOSURE FITTING [2].

 Note: Coolant can come out when you remove the cap.

Attach the WASH GUN HOLSTER and GASKET [E] to the enclosure face. Use the screws [F].

NOTE: For proper operation, make sure the wash gun gasket is properly seated. It needs to be flush at the bottom of the wash gun housing.

Attach the HOSE ASSEMBLY [C] to the MALE ENCLOSURE FITTING [2]. Attach the HOSE ASSEMBLY [C] to the WASH GUN [D].

Put the HOSE ASSEMBLY [C] in the WASH GUN HOLSTER [E].

The following service video shows how to troubleshoot a standard flood coolant pump

NOTE: This video is for reference only and does not replace the written procedure.

This troubleshooting guide applies to both 1-Phase and 3-Phase pumps.

In this image, the following components are shown.

1. Coolant Pump Motor
2. Coolant Outlet
3. Pump Body
4. Impeller Cap
5. Impeller

NOTE: For troubleshooting information on the coolant float sensor, refer to the Coolant Level Float Sensor - Troubleshooting Guide for more information. 

NOTE: Coolant Pumps with  PN: 30-14261 (1HP, 3-Phase without VFD) will follow the same installation process for non-VFD applications across all machines, with the exception of VF's VP-5, VM's, ST/DS, and UMC's.

ID0013 Coolant Pump Inspection Report Checklist requires the pump's serial number to be completed. 

The serial number can be found on the side of the pump [1] in the box labeled serial number [2]

Remove all chips from the the auger trough [1], and the coolant return drain [2].

Remove chips from the coolant tank. Excessive chips in the coolant tank reduce the amount of coolant the tank can store. Watch the video Machine Tool Coolant - Cleaning Your Tank - Video.

Fill the coolant tank. Watch the video Standard Coolant – Simplified - Filling your Tank … and More.

Make sure the coolant level sensor operates correctly.

Remove the impeller cap [1] from the bottom of the pump. Remove the screw that connects the impeller [2] to the shaft. Steel impellers have left-hand threads [3].

Carefully remove and clean the impeller [2]. Check for wear, damage, or cracking of the impeller [2].

If the impeller is damaged or cracked, order a replacement impeller, service part 93-2609. Follow Impeller Replacement Procedure to replace. 

Rotate the coolant pump shaft by hand. If the shaft does not turn freely, the motor bearings are damaged.

Install the impeller [2]. Rotate the coolant pump shaft by hand, and make sure the impeller does not rub on the pump body [4]. If the impeller rubs against the pump body, install shims between the impeller [2] and the coolant pump shaft. Install the impeller cap [1]. If the impeller [2] rubs against the impeller cap [1], remove one shim at a time until it does not rub.

There are several filters that keep chips out of the coolant pump. Refer to Section 3 for filter maintenance information.

Place the check valve [1] on the outlet side of the auxiliary filter as shown.

NOTE: Please contact Haas Service if this is done. 

Clean or replace the filter element. Check the area around the coolant pump intake for chips.

1. Auxiliary Filter - The bag filters in Auxiliary Filter tanks need to be cleaned or replaced. The Auxiliary Filter is an option. Your machine might not have this option.
2. Standard Filter - Standard Filters need to be cleaned.

Disconnect both ends of the coolant hoses. Remove any kinks. In the opposite direction of the coolant flow, blow air through the hoses to remove any chips. If you find chips in the hoses, check the coolant nozzles and washdown hoses for chip buildup. Connect the coolant hoses.

Remove chips from the basket filter in the coolant tank. For maintenance instructions, refer to the Coolant Tank ‑ Maintenance procedure.

Remove the coolant check-valve. Check it for blockage [1]. Make sure the trap door opens and closes freely. If the trap door does not close, coolant flows back into the tank. This delays the flow of coolant by a few seconds.

Disconnect both ends of the coolant hoses. Remove any kinks. In the opposite direction of the coolant flow, blow air through the hoses to remove any chips. If you find chips in the hoses, check the coolant nozzles and washdown hoses for chip buildup. Connect the coolant hoses.

1. Disconnect the pump cable from the machine.
2. With a ohm-meter measure each leg tab to the ground tab.
   

    Note: The ground tab has a bent. The example shown is a 3-phase pump with 4 tabs (L1, L2, L3 + Ground), single phase pumps have 3 tabs (L1, L2 + Ground).

   • If all the legs test open (O.L) to the ground tab then the pump and cable do not have a short circuit, see the next section.
   • If the motor cable leads [3] indicate a short, remove the motor cable cover and disconnect the cable from the motor.
3. Measure the motor cable leads [5] to ground [6] terminal screw or chassis. If any lead tests short, the pump is at fault. If none of the leads [5] test short, the cable is at fault.
4. If all the leads test OK, check the coolant pump for binding that could cause an over amperage condition.

1. First inspect the pump motor for a short circuit see section Defective Pump.
2. Make sure the coolant pump cable is connected to the machine.
   

    Important: Do not disconnect the coolant pump from the machine, doing this test without a load will give you false readings.

3. Remove the pump motor cover and locate the white, black, red wires for 3-phase motor or white and black for a single-phase.
4. Verify that coolant circuit breaker is set to on and setting 32 COOLANT OVERRIDE is set to NORMAL.
5. Press the [COOLANT] button to turn on the coolant pump.
6. Measure the voltage at the motor from lead to lead [1]. The reading must be 240 VAC. The motor shown is a 3-phase motor.
   • If you read 240 VAC, the coolant pump motor is damaged.
   • If you do not read 240 VAC, check at the I/O PCB coolant output. If there is still no voltage check the 240 VAC source from the PSUP PCB to I/O PCB.

The power supply PCB has a phase detect with neon indicators on the top center portion of the board. Make sure that the electrical power is phased correctly:

• Green Light: The incoming power is phased correctly.
• Orange Light: The incoming power is incorrectly phased.
• Both Lights: A phase is missing (there is a loose cable in the system).

If the electrical power is phased incorrectly:

Set the main circuit breaker to the OFF position.

Lock the main circuit breaker. Use an approved lock with an approved safety tag.

Swap the #74 and #75 incoming power cables at the main transformer.

Correct the pinnout on cable P/N 33-0197C, PSUP P11 (NGC).

The cable should match the drawing shown.

Problem: The 5/8" coolant hose leaks at the fittings or the hose pops off the fittings.

Cause: The 5/8" Hose Clamp[1] PN: 59-1524 installed on the coolant hose is oversized and does not clamp the hose correctly.

Solution: Replace the oversized hose clamp with PN: 59-2107 HOSE CLAMP EAR 20.1 - 23.3 MM. Use a Crimping Tool to secure the new hose clamp.

Machines built after December 2015 have the cast coolant-filter [1]. This procedure tells you how to replace the standard coolant-filter [2] with the cast coolant-filter [1]. The standard coolant-filter [2] has a plastic reservoir.

 Note: The cast coolant-filter [1] replaces all standard coolant-filters [2].

Note: The coolant filter has been replaced with the chip seperator. For more information regarding the chip seperator click here.

For DM, DT, EC-1600, MM, SMM, and TM machines: Use the (2) crescent wrenches and remove the 1/2" fitting [2]. Use the allen wrench to install the plug [3].

For DM, DT, MM, SMM, and TM machines: Use the (2) crescent wrenches to remove the 5/8" fitting [1] and install the 1/2" fitting [2].

For all machines, go to step 2.

Remove all coolant hoses. Use the (2) crescent wrenches to remove all fittings [3] and the valve assembly [1]. Keep all the fittings. Remove and discard the standard coolant-filter [2].

Attach the cast coolant-filter [5]. Use the Phillips screwdriver and install the (2) screws [6]. Install all coolant fittings [3] and the valve assembly [1].

Connect the hose [4].

When you install the (3) remaining hoses, do these steps for each hose:

• Install the hose cap [7].
• Install the hose clamp [8].
• Use the crimp pliers [9] to crimp the hose clamp [8].

If the machine has 3/4" coolant hoses, use the 1/2"-to-3/4" inch adapter in the kit.